Having heard great things about the The Muset in Clifton, I finally decided I ought to check it out.
Front of house staff were very friendly and welcoming – we almost felt like regulars, which is always nice. Starting with a drink in the comfy sofas by the bar, we were then led to a prime spot by the windows – ideally placed to peer across at the upright wine ‘cellar’ and look out onto the street at the same time. We opted for the Tasting Menu; a fixed selection of what the restaurant does best, with a glass of wine matched to each dish – one of my favourites!
Duck Liver & Foie Gras Parfait, Confit Leg Beignet, Prune and Armagnac
Chateau du Levant, Sauternes
A huge portion, served with three types of fresh warm bread. Absolutely delicious – the entire dish was perfectly balanced, well-seasoned and a great combination of flavours. Served with a very well matched Sauternes.
Cornish Scallops, Garlic Puree, Sage & Pancetta
The Stump Jump Riesling 2009
A very pretty and delicate dish. Scallops were not overdone (which happens too often in restaurants). The flavours worked very well together.
Monkfish ‘Ras el Hanout’, Lentils, King Prawn, Cauliflower & Yoghurt
Clos Berger Vouvray 2009
A stunning dish to look at and a great combination of textures. The flavours were exciting, but would have benefited from a touch more seasoning.
Beef Fillet, Bone Marrow, Salsify, Beetroot & Cottage Pie
Chateau Bonnet Reserve 2006
Perfectly cooked beef and a scrumptious mini cottage pie. Very delicately and attractively presented for such a hearty dish.
Chocolate Slice, Cherries & Cherry Sorbet
Late Bottled Vintage Port 2000
Now, this is what I call a dessert! My other half tends to skip dessert but polished this one off nevertheless. The combination of the dark chocolate slice and the tangy cherry sorbet was heavenly. I was not convinced by the micro herb garnish (it seemed unnecessary), but these were easy enough to pick off. This was served with a port - a good wine but not the best match for this sort of dish. Ultimately however this was a great full stop to the menu.
Overall, I definitely feel like going back! Bristol could do with more restaurants where chefs aiming for ‘haute cuisine’ really know what they are doing, are not afraid to try new things and, most importantly, can add creative nuance and flair without ignoring the fundamentals of good cooking. The restaurant manager at The Muset seemed to know how to make customers feel special (not to mention the owner himself getting stuck in).
Dinner at The Muset would be a great treat on a special occasion, but I would recommend not waiting for this – just give them a go now.
http://www.ronnies-restaurant.co.uk/
